8. Spraying with primer. Make sure your closure tabs are taped over so that the primer doesn't clog them and keep them from fitting later. Since we're working with small details here, it's better NOT to use a a thick primer like Rust-oleum's Painter's Touch Ultra Cover. That is good for larger pieces, but the primer pools TOO much in the small nooks and crannies in this size and it's harder to press it back in. I tried a couple of primers and really like Krylon K02518000 Fusion For Plastic, Flat White. It covers nicely without being overly thick, has a nice toothy finish, dries fast and is easy to sand. Whatever primer you end up using, follow the directions on the can. How many layers you need totally depends on how your piece is and what you're trying to achieve.
9. Sharpening the detail/re-pressing. The primer will fill in some of the detail, so once it is dry, use an awl or something similar to press the details back into shape in all the recesses. Don't scratch it in or you'll chip the primer. Tilt your tool at a fairly steep angle and drag/press it through the areas you're working on, letting the pointed tip trail.
10. Sanding again. This is where you can really smooth and straighten things out. If necessary you can fold sandpaper and use the corner to clean up some of the lines you pressed in the last step.
11. Painting. You can use whatever you want that is compatible with your doll. For this example, I used straight up PearEx mixed with Tamiya gloss and mica powder mixed with Tamiya Gloss. After letting that dry for a day, I finished it with 2 layers of Mr. Super Clear gloss since this is a great use for it and their gloss version is far less tempermental than their matte spray.
A little bit closer to see the metallic/gloss finish:
Go back to Part 1
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